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This is a laburnum I planted last year. It has flowered already. i just wondered if all the branches should be staked and pulled towards the centre or left to grow as they are. As it is hard to see them in the pic have added arrows. Find it hard to get pic under 1MB and show all and branches, they are not very thick anyway

If so what would be best to stake it with. ?

[tippben]

It's tiny, don't worry! You need to kill the grass for about a foot from the stem in all directions. Use glyphosate, or light suppression. If you try to dig, you'll harm the roots. Also, take the label off before it damages the bark. It looks like its lost the leader. I'd leave it to develop naturally into several main stems, like an apple tree. If you really want to, train the strongest top branch in line with the stem, using a cane and soft ties. If you do, trim the side branches back by about 1/3 when the tree goes dormant in the autumn.

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[michael brenock]

the seeds of laburnum contained in a pod like peas are poisonous. That is why the tree is normally grown as a standard ( long stem) so that the pods and seeds are out of the reach of children. it is a member of the Legume (Pea) family.
michael brenock horticultural advisor (retired)

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[tippben]

There's no need to stake a tree that small. A stake is only useful to prevent rootball movement, and your tree doesn't have enough "sail" for that to be a problem. If you want to train it vertically for cosmetic purposes, you can use garden canes and soft ties, creating as many main stems as you wish. Alternatively, if you leave it, it will find its own way over the next couple of years, and crossing stems, central shoots etc can be pruned out.

You do need to sort the grass out though. To a sapling, grass is just a vigorous weed. If you cut it, it'll only grow faster, robbing more water and nutrients from your tree. Personally, I'd use a glyphosate weedkiller, then an 1 foot circle of thick cardboard around the tree, then put your stone on. It'll appreciate several gallons of water in dry spells, then a few days before the next lot. This will encourage better root development as the roots chase the water. Hope this is of some help.

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[tippben]

Glyphosate only affects the foliage it comes into contact with. I use a small hand sprayer from the local pound shop - it's very precise, as you can get very close to the target plant with no drift. When it hits the soil, it breaks down, so doesn't harm the roots. There's no need to use a fertiliser, but liquid seaweed feed once a week (M***crop) will help. This helps the roots and the soil organisms, but is not really a fertiliser. M****legrow and similar products will just cause a big flush of sappy shoots. You want a strong root system, and the roots have to work hard searching out water and food for that. You can also spray seaweed or nettle solution as a foliar feed first thing in the morning, but get another little spray gun. I have different coloured ones so I don't accidentally apply the residue of an unwanted product.

[gardenman]

To kill the grass around the basse of the tree without harming the tree, use a selective herbicide that will only kill grasses and not broadleaves. Perfectly safe to use. Aramo or fusilade max will work. Will take 6 weeks for grass death but at least you wont damage your tree by using roundup.
Also don't use roundup near a tree with green bark such as laburnum. The stem will absorb it rapidly and die as quick as the grass.

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[kindredspirit]

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[inishindie]

How about not feeding the chemical industry (Valagro and Scotts) with any of your hard earned money and just put some cardboard or paper and mulch around the tree!

If you use well rotted garden compost this will act as a gentle fertiliser and keep the grass from being a problem. Clear the grass a few inches from the tree and try not to let the compost touch the bark if possible.

[kindredspirit]