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Hot compost in trashcan URGENT


 
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Edlyn12
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 8:48 pm    Post subject: Hot compost in trashcan URGENT Reply with quote

I really need an answer quickly so here it goes.How can I make a hot compost heap in a trashcan?I really want a hot compost bin as I want a way of safely recycling diseased plants and I don't want to wait ages as I would with cold composting.I can't make a compost bin any larger so please help.

Thanks

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tagwex
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am no expert Edlyn12 but if I were you and I had diseased plants then I would burn them. What is the point of putting that bacteria/virus/fungus into your compost where it would most likely thrive and multiply only to spread it around again next year?
I looked at your FB page, very good, keep it up. Good story about the rabbit! I think your chilli jalapeño seedlings might be a few months too late. I think they have a very long growing season, as much as nine months, so you need to start them about February. Maybe you have a variety that is OK at this time of year. What variety do you have?

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Edlyn12
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya but I was reading that with hit composting it kills diseases.My chilli variety is the jalapeño but if I grow it inside will it be able to grow?
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Edlyn12
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya but I was reading that with hit composting it kills diseases.My chilli variety is the jalapeño but if I grow it inside will it be able to grow?Thanks for te comments about my page,but I am thinking of doing a blog instead.
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tagwex
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LIFTED FROM A WEBSITE:

The term "hot composting" refers to a method in which microbial activity within the compost pile is at its optimum level, which results in finished compost in a much shorter period of time. It requires some special equipment, as well as time and diligence. But if you are determined to have finished compost in time to start a new garden bed or top-dress your garden, hot composting may be worth trying.

Compost Pile Size and Placement for Hot Composting

The size of your compost bin or pile is very important when it comes to hot composting. Too small,and the pile won't heat up sufficiently. A good size for a pile or bin for hot composting is 4 feet wide by 4 feet high, at least. In general, bigger is better, but four feet by four feet is a manageable size for most gardeners. The pile should be placed in full sun, if possible -- shade will cool the pile down a bit and slow the process down. You can just heap the materials up, or use a simple wire fence bin. Of course, if you're construction-minded, you can also build a nice, large bin out of wood or shipping pallets.

Collecting Items for Hot Composting

The thing with hot composting is that it's best to have all of your materials on hand when you build the pile. Usually, we add organic matter to the pile as we accumulate it, but with hot composting, the whole point is to get the pile to heat up. For this, we need a large amount or organic matter, with the right carbon to nitrogen ratio, right from the start.

The carbon to nitrogen ratio is essential in getting the microbial activity going at high gear and heating the pile up. Optimally, your pile should be 25 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Here are some suggestions for carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich compost ingredients:

Carbon Rich Ingredients

Straw
Dry corn stalks
Shredded paper
Small twigs
Dry fall leaves
Nitrogen Rich Ingredients

Grass clippings
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Weeds that haven't gone to seed
Deadheads/trimmings from garden plants
Coffee grounds and tea bags
Farm animal manures,rabbit manure

No matter what you use, it is essential to chop it finely so it breaks down as quickly as possible. Often, the easiest way to do this is to run a lawn mower over the ingredients a few times. If possible, add a few shovelfuls of finished compost to act as an "activator" -- (commercial activators are unnecessary. Compost happens.) Mix the ingredients together (layering is not necessary, and often makes the process take longer), water it so the ingredients are evenly moist, and let it sit.

Maintaining a Hot Compost Pile

The two keys to success with hot composting are monitoring soil temperature and moisture and turning regularly.

The optimal temperature for microbial activity is 130 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. You can measure this with a soil/compost thermometer, or by simply sticking your hand into the pile. If it's uncomfortably hot, it's at the right temperature. At 130 to 140 degrees, microbes are breaking down organic matter and reproducing at high rates. This temperature is also hot enough to kill most weed seeds and harmful bacteria in the pile. Monitor the temperature regularly, preferably daily. Once the pile starts to cool down below 130 degrees, it's time to turn the pile. Turning the pile aerates it, which will kickstart microbial activity again.

Moisture is also essential. The contents of your compost pile should feel like a sponge that has been wrung out well. Too dry, and microbial activity will be severely diminished. Too wet, and the microbes that thrive in anaerobic conditions will take over -- this often results in bad odors in the pile and an almost complete stoppage of decomposition. If you find that your pile is too dry, give it a watering with the hose, even digging down a bit into the pile to ensure that you're moistening it all the way through. If it's too wet, turn it, adding shredded newspaper or another high-carbon material as you do so to help soak up excess moisture. Cover with a tarp if rain is keeping the pile waterlogged.

Finished Hot Compost

After three weeks or so of this routine, (depending on the air temperature and other environmental conditions, such as precipitation) you will have beautiful, dark brown, crumbly compost to add to your gardens or lawn. Well worth the effort, and so rewarding.

IT LOOKS LIKE YOU WERE RIGHT ABOUT THE HOT COMPOST KILLING OFF GERMS ON DISEASED PLANTS BUT I WOULD STILL BURN THEM. ALSO IT APPEARS THAT YOUR TRASH CAN MIGHT BE TOO SMALL.

YOU WILL HAVE TO KEEP THOSE PEPPERS REALLY WARM ALL WINTER, HARDLY WORTH THE EFFORT, START AGAIN NEXT FEBRUARY.

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“It’s my field. It’s my child. I nursed it. I nourished it. I saw to its every want. I dug the rocks out of it with my bare hands and I made a living thing of it!”

This boy can really sing http://youtu.be/Dgv78D2duBE
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Good guy
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a really thorough explanation, Tagwex. Where did you get it? The website sounds worth exploring.
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tagwex
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://organicgardening.about.com/
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“It’s my field. It’s my child. I nursed it. I nourished it. I saw to its every want. I dug the rocks out of it with my bare hands and I made a living thing of it!”

This boy can really sing http://youtu.be/Dgv78D2duBE
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