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Post new topic   Reply to topic    Irish Gardeners Forum Home -> Plant Propagation, increasing your stock of plants in Ireland.

Griselinia littoralis propagation


 
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Ckin
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:29 pm    Post subject: Griselinia littoralis propagation Reply with quote

What is the best method of propagation for Griselinia ?? layering, cuttings ect..
Heres my idea.. i need healthy plants with a nice strong root system this time next year or mabye a little later.. they will be used as a hedge that is not urgent at the moment.

I would prefer to try and produce the hedge myself instead of buying hundreds of bare root plants.. because the hedge is not needed fast.. id also prefer to produce them in soil instead of compost or any other growing medium as it would simply cost a bomb for pots and compot..

Any tips or help would be great.. Thanks Smile

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kindredspirit
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a note.

A "once in 30 years" cold spell could kill your Griselinia hedge. A factor to consider. They are not completely hardy here.

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Sive
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Colm, I live in Wexford too and have a very unusual neighbour...... with a surviving grisellinia hedge ( ! ), purely because he lives on a hill which means he doesn't suffer the most severe frosts. He is an exception.... I believe nurseries did great business after the severe winter of 2010-2011, supplying hedging plants to replace dead grisellinias around the country. So I agree with Kindredspirit.....it would be a heartbreak for you, to go to all that trouble propagating those plants only to lose them in a few years' time in a severe frost.
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Greengage
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take softwood cuttings now.
Dont worry about the frost calculate your age add 30 sure will you be still here, its only a hedge you can get another then.
A meteorite could fall from the sky and burn it as well
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Ckin
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a greslinia hedge at home and it is still growing strong. its about 20 years old and i only recently trimmed it so i must be in a good area to Smile

Are soft wood cuttings the best to take or hardwood?? Smile

Thanks to the people who wrote on my topic Smile

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inishindie
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was called out to a house where 200 variegated griselina had died. The verdict at the time was the sheep in the adjoining field had killed them nipping the tops of the plants off as they reached over the fence...some sort of poisonous spittle... The hedge was four years old I recall... they spend 5 euro per plant initially so it was an expensive job. Frost was ruled out at the time as there were no really sharp ones that year... here is a list of when to take cuttings...Maybe take a few more than you need and grow them in a separate place then if any die in the hedge you can replace them and they will look the same size....

TYPES OF STEM CUTTINGS
The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.

Herbaceous cuttings
These are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemums and dahlia. A 3-5 inch (7-10cm) piece of stem is cut from the parent plant. The leaves on the lower one third to one half are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings should root easily.

Softwood cuttings
These are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants (rose or woodbine) just as it begins to harden (mature). The soft shoots are quite tender and should not be allowed to dry out. The time to get this new growth is around May and June.

Semi-hardwood cuttings

These cuttings are obtained in mid July to autumn. They will have partially mature wood on the current seasons growth. The wood is quite firm and the leaves are full sized. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs are propagated this way.

Hardwood cuttings
These are taken from dormant, mature stems in autumn, winter and spring. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings can be used for many evergreen plants as well as deciduous plants

TAKING CUTTINGS
Take cuttings in the early morning if possible, because the plant is fully turgid (full of water) the cuttings can be between 4-6 inches long (8-12cm) cutting just below a node on the stem. The lower third of the leaves can be removed. Large leaves on the cuttings could be cut in half to prevent too much water loss. Some people recommend a rooting hormone powder to increase the chances of the cuttings rooting. I have found very little evidence to prove the powder works except on Potentillas where it does seem to improve the chances of the cuttings taken. They can be grown in the ground in a weed free place or use sterile potting compost that is low in nutrients, this helps the roots form faster as they search for food. One part peat compost to one part sand is a good mix. Push the cuttings in a third to half the length making sure they are the right way up. Water in and maybe cover with plastic, being sure to avoid direct sunlight.
The newly rooted plants can be transplanted into pots to establish outdoors before they are put into their final position in the garden.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

inishindie wrote:
I was called out to a house where 200 variegated griselina had died. The verdict at the time was the sheep in the adjoining field had killed them nipping the tops of the plants off as they reached over the fence...some sort of poisonous spittle... The hedge was four years old I recall... they spend 5 euro per plant initially so it was an expensive job. Frost was ruled out at the time as there were no really sharp ones that year... here is a list of when to take cuttings...Maybe take a few more than you need and grow them in a separate place then if any die in the hedge you can replace them and they will look the same size....

TYPES OF STEM CUTTINGS
The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.

Herbaceous cuttings
These are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemums and dahlia. A 3-5 inch (7-10cm) piece of stem is cut from the parent plant. The leaves on the lower one third to one half are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings should root easily.

Softwood cuttings
These are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants (rose or woodbine) just as it begins to harden (mature). The soft shoots are quite tender and should not be allowed to dry out. The time to get this new growth is around May and June.

Semi-hardwood cuttings

These cuttings are obtained in mid July to autumn. They will have partially mature wood on the current seasons growth. The wood is quite firm and the leaves are full sized. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs are propagated this way.

Hardwood cuttings
These are taken from dormant, mature stems in autumn, winter and spring. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings can be used for many evergreen plants as well as deciduous (sheds and renews leaves annually) plants

TAKING CUTTINGS
Take cuttings in the early morning if possible, because the plant is fully turgid (full of water) the cuttings can be between 4-6 inches long (8-12cm) cutting just below a node on the stem. The lower third of the leaves can be removed. Large leaves on the cuttings could be cut in half to prevent too much water loss. Some people recommend a rooting hormone powder to increase the chances of the cuttings rooting. I have found very little evidence to prove the powder works except on Potentillas where it does seem to improve the chances of the cuttings taken. They can be grown in the ground in a weed free place or use sterile potting compost that is low in nutrients, this helps the roots form faster as they search for food. One part peat compost to one part sand is a good mix. Push the cuttings in a third to half the length making sure they are the right way up. Water in and maybe cover with plastic, being sure to avoid direct sunlight.
The newly rooted plants can be transplanted into pots to establish outdoors before they are put into their final position in the garden.


Some say compost and perlite. . You say peat and sand. Does it really matter the mixture as long as there is a growing medium and something to aerate it? Would sand and multi purpose compost do? And also there is disagreement about the need to cover them with the plastic

As an experiment I rooted lonerica in compost that had been in a bamboo container and had been well fed.It rooted without any sand or rooting hormone.
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inishindie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure you are right about a medium, it's more about support and moisture than nutrition, in fact the less nutrition the faster the root growth as they search for somewhere to get it from... I suppose it'd be good to pick something that's natural and sustainable.

I was looking into hydroponics there last week and most things would root if the cuttings were suspended in mid air where there was a really high humidity!

http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/about6194.html

If you put ivy or other climbers/trailing or running plants in plastic the roots will emerge from the side of the stems Smile The main reason for the plastic is to avoid the cuttings drying out in the wind (transpiration) it's when the amount of water evaporating is more than the cutting can take up... something like that... Keeping cuttings uncovered in a sheltered spot is good... we don't want to make it too easy for them!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

inishindie wrote:
I'm sure you are right about a medium, it's more about support and moisture than nutrition, in fact the less nutrition the faster the root growth as they search for somewhere to get it from... I suppose it'd be good to pick something that's natural and sustainable.

I was looking into hydroponics there last week and most things would root if the cuttings were suspended in mid air where there was a really high humidity!

http://www.gardenplansireland.com/forum/about6194.html

If you put ivy or other climbers/trailing or running plants in plastic the roots will emerge from the side of the stems Smile The main reason for the plastic is to avoid the cuttings drying out in the wind (transpiration) it's when the amount of water evaporating is more than the cutting can take up... something like that... Keeping cuttings uncovered in a sheltered spot is good... we don't want to make it too easy for them!
and drainage i think
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slightly ot but i saw a nice grisalinea plant today and wondered if the roots could be seperated into several smaller plants as fast growing
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