Author |
Message |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 11:42 am Post subject: Help please. How can I propagate shrubs from cuttings ? |
|
|
Could anyone please advise me how best to propagate shrubs ?
I have tried in the past. and failed, and I assumed I just don't have green fingers. I was so disheartened, I gave up trying. But now, I have so much space to fill, that propagating from my existing shrubs is a far less expensive option than endless shopping !
Has anyone any advice.....for instance which are easier....softwood or hardwood cuttings ?
I would love to get a few tips from someone who does this successfully. Thanks ! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
kindredspirit Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood

Joined: 10 Nov 2008 Posts: 2300 Location: Mid-west.
|
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Margo Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 1984 Location: Summerhill Mayo Ireland
|
Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 12:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It all depends what your existing shrubs are. I always tend to be on the safe side and take cuttings with a heel. I also dip them in hormone powder (Baby Bio) and lightly scratching the stalk before planting them in compost. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 1:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thank you both....could you explain if you are talking about softwood or hardwood cuttings....I believe there are two distinct types ?
You obviously have green fingers kindredspirit. ( I really believe in such a thing )
Thank you margo, i'll get some hormone rooting powder. Do you cover the pot with a plastic bag as some books suggest ? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Margo Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Posts: 1984 Location: Summerhill Mayo Ireland
|
Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 1:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Usually hardwood cuttings are done with a heel. Softwood is when you get something like a dahlia and you cut a nice shoot of the top.
I don't always put a plastic bag over the top it all depends on the cutting whether its a tender one or not. Say something like a forsythia or a buddlia which are quite hardy (hardwood) then I don't bother.
You can get the hormone gel but I found that dried up quicker where the powder doesn't. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Sat May 28, 2011 2:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks Margo, I'm definitely going to try your method.....I've nothing to lose, and maybe if I can get the hang of it, I'll get lots of free plants ! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
michael brenock Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 12 Aug 2008 Posts: 1275 Location: cork
|
Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 8:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
hardwood cuttings usually are taken in the Autumn and taken with a heel (small portion of previous years wood that is torn off with it or cut off. Soft wood cuttings are taken during the growing season June/July of soft wood and usually put under a sheet of plastic or glass in a cool moist place. Propagation of trees and shrubs is a huge subject but the best book that I know on the subject is written by Keith Lamb and Jim Kelly. There are many others.
michael brenock horticultural advisor (retired) |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
medieval knievel Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 03 Sep 2007 Posts: 1010
|
Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 8:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
might be an idea to specify what the source plants are? |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Sun May 29, 2011 9:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yes, I haven't been very specific, because I thought the methods would be similar for most shrubs.....I wasn't thinking of one particular shrub......but I have all sorts: viburnums, hydrangeas,cistus, buddleia, fuchsia,hebes,forsythia,solanum,lonicera. etc etc
Thank you michael and mk for your comments.
I'll try the softwood cuttings in June....."cool moist place " is interesting.....not the glass house so ! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
inishindie Rank attained: Tree plantation keeper

Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 563 Location: inishowen Ireland
|
Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 12:11 am Post subject: |
|
|
TYPES OF STEM CUTTINGS
The four main types of stem cuttings are herbaceous, softwood, semi-hardwood and hardwood.
Herbaceous cuttings
These are made from non-woody, herbaceous plants such as chrysanthemums and dahlia. A 3-5 inch (7-10cm) piece of stem is cut from the parent plant. The leaves on the lower one third to one half are removed. A high percentage of the cuttings should root easily.
Softwood cuttings
These are prepared from soft, succulent, new growth of woody plants (rose or woodbine) just as it begins to harden (mature). The soft shoots are quite tender and should not be allowed to dry out. The time to get this new growth is around May and June.
Semi-hardwood cuttings
These cuttings are obtained in mid July to autumn. They will have partially mature wood on the current seasons growth. The wood is quite firm and the leaves are full sized. Many broadleaf evergreen shrubs are propagated this way.
Hardwood cuttings
These are taken from dormant, mature stems in autumn, winter and spring. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Hardwood cuttings can be used for many evergreen plants as well as deciduous plants
TAKING CUTTINGS
Take cuttings in the early morning if possible, because the plant is fully turgid (full of water) the cuttings can be between 4-6 inches long (8-12cm) cutting just below a node on the stem. The lower third of the leaves can be removed. Large leaves on the cuttings could be cut in half to prevent too much water loss. Some people recommend a rooting hormone powder to increase the chances of the cuttings rooting. I have found very little evidence to prove the powder works except on Potentillas where it does seem to improve the chances of the cuttings taken. Use sterile potting compost that is low in nutrients, this helps the roots form faster as they search for food. One part peat substitute compost to one part sand is a good mix. Push the cuttings in a third to half the length making sure they are the right way up. Water in and cover with plastic, being sure to avoid direct sunlight.
The newly rooted plants can be transplanted into pots to establish outdoors before they are put into their final position in the garden. _________________ if you are interested in raised vegetable beds and veggie growing I have a new website - raisedbeds.net We're busy on social networking too and have over 12,000 members in the group. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 8:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thank you so much Inishindie, that is a lot of valuable information. From your own experience, can you guide me to the method most likely to succeed ? I sense I don't have the requisite green fingers ! |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
heno55 Rank attained: Hazel Tree

Joined: 13 Jun 2010 Posts: 49 Location: The White Country
|
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 6:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
instead of buying hormone rooting powder you can make it yourself by chopping up some willow stems and leaving them soak in water add your cuttings for a few hours and then plant them, the willow contains a natural rooting hormone which as far as i know is extracted to make the powder you buy |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
Sive Rank attained: Chlorophyll for blood
Joined: 18 Apr 2008 Posts: 1731 Location: Co.Wexford
|
Posted: Tue May 31, 2011 10:43 am Post subject: |
|
|
Very interesting heno.....willow must be a most interesting plant, considering aspirin was developed to mimic another substance found in willow bark. |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
heno55 Rank attained: Hazel Tree

Joined: 13 Jun 2010 Posts: 49 Location: The White Country
|
Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 6:53 am Post subject: |
|
|
i think willow is the most amazing and versatile thing you can plant if i had to choose only one non eddible plant it would be willow it just has so many uses from fuel to hedging,building,sculpture windbreaks and many more not to mention what can be done with extracts, yes its about the most usefull plant i can think off |
|
Back to top |
|
 |
|
|