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Pear tree divided at the base.


 
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foxroxks
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2009 9:44 pm    Post subject: Pear tree divided at the base. Reply with quote

its seems to have divided at the base. Should i slipt it or just leave it be?

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verge
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How so? any pics?
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foxroxks
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here a pic of the base & how its divided, Its only a young tree but I like it n dont want to kill it off
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foxroxks
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

soz pics 2 big will try again


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medieval knievel
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that looks to me like the rootstock is growing. someone more informed and better looking than me would be in a better position to advise what to do about it.
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Bobwilliams
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spot on I'd say medieval knievel. I reckon it is the stem on the right which has to be removed or it will overtake the tree.
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Liparis
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree 100%
Bill.

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foxroxks
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry but what do u mean it will take over the tree? I googled rootstock but i'm still not sure what the problem is.
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Liparis
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fruit trees are budded or grafted. They take a bud from the fruit tree that's wanted and graft it onto a rootstock. Apples used to be grafted on to plain old crab apple years ago. the graft is made low down near ground level and when it begins to grow you cut away the growth from the rootstock and leave the growth from the bud. Voila, a vigorously growing fruit tree. Quicker than taking cuttings and waiting a year or more for them to root befor growing. the fruit tree grows rapidly as the rootstock selected is chosen for vigour and dwarf/standard as well as disease resistance. If a shoot apears below the graft (you can see where the scarring has healed) being vigorous it will outgrow your apple tree and take away all the nourishment.
Any shoots below the graft need to be cut out with a sharp knife, leaving no ragged edges and close to the stem. Yours looks like it will have to be taken off with loppers and cleanly trimmed with a knife.
Bill.

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foxroxks
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing apple is the same as a pear tree. Oh thats a shame . I really liked the odd shape. I'll chop it off 2mor. with regards 2 the trimming how far in should i cut
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Liparis
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As close as you can. If you leave to much of a stump it can form new buds around the wound as it heals which means more rootstock growth. It's best to keep a check on it during the course of the year and if you see buds forming, it's easier to rub them them off with your thumb than subject the tree to stress by having to cut off such a large branch then wait on it healing.
Trimming clean and smooth leaves less places for bacteria or virus to get into the tree. We used to paint wounds with cheshunt compound, but studies showed that disease/virus increased with such treatment because you actually sealed in the spores etc allowing them the chance to do damage. It's less likely to happen with a clean cut and left to the open air.
All your fruit trees are the same.
Bill.

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verge
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

foxroxks wrote:
Sorry but what do u mean it will take over the tree? I googled rootstock but i'm still not sure what the problem is.


Well explained by Liparis already, but just as a visual aid here is a video explaining grafting and showing how it is done by nurserymen Grafting Fruit Trees, How-to Video. . Video shows mango tree grafting from down under. Wink

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